Comfort Tech Ottawa — Reddit Content Library

13 weeks of posts,
written for r/ottawa and adjacent.

Each post is ready to paste. Copy the title, copy the body, post in the recommended subreddit. Disclosure language is built in.

How to use this library

Every post below is written in the founder voice ("I run a small HVAC company in Ottawa"). The posts do not name Comfort Tech and do not link to the website — brand transfer happens through the Reddit username profile and the helpfulness of the content itself. Set the Reddit account profile to clearly identify Derek as the owner of Comfort Tech Ottawa, and that's where curious readers will find the company.

Posting cadence: One post per week, Tuesday or Wednesday between 7–9pm Eastern. Reply to comments actively for the first 24 hours after posting.

Mod relationships: Before posting Week 3 onward in r/ottawa, send a polite modmail noting you're a local business owner who plans to post helpful content occasionally. Most mods appreciate the heads-up and will green-light future posts. The phrase "mods cleared this" inside several posts assumes you have already done this.

Important: If a post starts going sideways in comments (someone challenges credentials, accuses self-promotion), respond once calmly with context, then let other commenters defend the post. Do not get into extended arguments.

Table of Contents

  1. Week 1Warm-up: Comment templates (8 ready-to-paste comments)
  2. Week 2PSA: AC drain pan check before peak heat
  3. Week 33 things Ottawa homeowners overpay for every May/June
  4. Week 4What I actually charge for AC installs in Ottawa
  5. Week 5How to get out of a Reliance / Enercare rental
  6. Week 6Wildfire smoke season: the filter upgrade that works
  7. Week 7Heat pump AMA (anchor post)
  8. Week 8Ontario's $7,500 heat pump rebate explained
  9. Week 9Heat pump vs new gas furnace in Ottawa
  10. Week 10Ontario landlords: HVAC obligations explained
  11. Week 11Real hydro bills after switching to a heat pump
  12. Week 12Fall furnace planning: what to do in August
  13. Week 13Standby generators: the honest math
Phase 1 · Account Warm-Up

Weeks 1–3: Build karma. Earn the right to post.

r/ottawa filters new accounts. Three weeks of comments and one soft PSA establish you as a real person before any commercial-adjacent content appears.

Week 1 · May 12–18| r/ottawa r/HomeImprovement r/HVAC | Comments only — no original posts yet

Eight comment templates for warming up the account

Drop these (or adapt them) into existing r/ottawa, r/HomeImprovement, and r/HVAC threads. Goal: 200+ comment karma before Week 2's first post. Always make the comment actually useful first — helpfulness is the only thing that converts to karma. Never link to anything. Never name the company. The username profile is where the brand lives.

When you see — "My furnace is making a weird noise"
Ottawa HVAC tech here. Couple of things to check before calling anyone: - If it's a rumbling sound at startup, that's usually delayed ignition. Means the gas is pooling for a second before lighting. Common cause: dirty burners. Not urgent but it's the kind of thing that gets worse, not better. - If it's a high-pitched whine or squeal, that's usually the blower motor bearings going. Replaceable but it'll be a $300-500 service call. - If it's a banging on shutdown (ductwork popping), that's metal expansion/contraction. Annoying but harmless. - If it's a metal-on-metal scraping, shut it off and call someone. That's a blower wheel hitting the housing. Recording the sound on your phone and being able to play it back for the tech saves a lot of guessing time.
When you see — "Is $X a fair price for this HVAC job?"
Ottawa HVAC guy here. Fair range depends on what's actually included. A few things to ask before agreeing: - Is the price for parts AND labour, or just service call + diagnostic? - What's the warranty on both the part and the labour? - Is the part OEM or aftermarket? (Both are fine, but the price should reflect it.) - If it's a quote for replacement, get the model number and AFUE/SEER rating in writing. For reference, a typical service call diagnostic in Ottawa runs $120-180. Common repairs (capacitor, igniter, flame sensor) usually add $150-300 in parts. Anything significantly above that range, ask for an itemized breakdown. Anything significantly below, ask what they're not telling you.
When you see — "Anyone else dealing with Reliance / Enercare problems?"
HVAC tech in Ottawa. I deal with this constantly — customers trying to escape rental contracts they didn't realize they signed. Two important things to check on your contract: 1. What's the buyout amount today? Every contract has a depreciation schedule. After year 5 or so, buying it out is often cheaper than paying the remaining monthly fees. 2. What's the term length? Open-term (month to month with 30 day notice) is escapable. Fixed-term (typically 10 years) requires buyout to exit before term ends. Don't just stop paying — they'll lien your property. Get the contract, run the buyout math, and make the decision based on actual numbers. If the company won't send you the contract or buyout figure in writing, that itself is a complaint-worthy issue (Ontario Energy Board regulates these companies).
When you see — "Why is my hydro bill so high?"
HVAC perspective — a few things to check that aren't obvious: - If you have central AC and your bill jumped in summer, check the temperature differential. Set thermostat 5 degrees above outside temp at night and see if it stops cycling. If AC runs constantly, the system might be undersized, low on refrigerant, or you've got duct losses. - If you have electric backup heat (heat pump or electric baseboards), check whether your thermostat is calling on backup more than needed. Most smart thermostats let you set a "lockout" temperature for the backup — default settings are often too aggressive. - Furnace blower running on "ON" instead of "Auto" can add $30-60/month. Check the thermostat setting. - Old fridge in basement / garage. Pre-2000s second fridges are often the single biggest hidden cost. A $30 Kill A Watt meter will confirm. Most "why is my bill so high" issues trace to one of these four things in Ottawa homes.
When you see — "First-time homeowner, what should I know about HVAC?"
HVAC tech, Ottawa. Top things I'd want to know if it were my first house: 1. Where's your furnace shut-off switch (looks like a regular wall switch near the furnace) and where's your gas shut-off valve (usually outside near the meter). Know both before you need them. 2. Change the filter every 3 months minimum, every month during wildfire smoke season. Write the date on the new one with a Sharpie. This is the single most impactful thing you can do for your system. 3. Year built and last service date of the furnace. If you don't know, call to get the inspection done now — not next November when techs are booked solid. 4. Make sure outdoor AC unit is clear of debris and has 2+ feet of clearance. Trim plants accordingly. 5. Find your thermostat manual. Set a reasonable schedule. "Constant 22 degrees" is the most expensive way to run a house. That's most of the basics. Everything else can wait until something specific comes up.
When you see — "Thinking about getting a heat pump"
Ottawa HVAC guy here, installed a fair number of these. Honest answer is: it depends heavily on your home. If you're well-insulated, post-2000 construction or have had insulation work done: a cold-climate heat pump (Mitsubishi Hyper Heat, Lennox SL25XPV, Carrier Infinity) will work great. Maintains capacity to about -25C. If you're in an older home with original windows and minimal attic insulation: the heat pump will struggle on cold snaps and your bills won't be what the marketing promises. Insulate first. The HRSP rebate (up to $7,500) makes the upfront math much better. You'll need a pre-installation energy audit and the equipment has to be on the qualifying products list. The honest annual operating cost change in Ottawa right now is: typical home pays $100-300/year MORE on hydro than they currently pay on gas+electric, but eliminates gas entirely and is positioned well as carbon tax keeps climbing. So it's not a money-saver today, it's a future-proofing move that the rebate makes affordable.
When you see — Anything about wildfire smoke / air quality
HVAC angle on this — your furnace filter is the most important air filter in your home, by far. Standalone purifiers cover one room. The furnace circulates the entire house's air through one filter every 10-20 minutes. Cheapest meaningful upgrade: swap your standard 1-inch filter for a MERV 13 rated one. Filtrete 1500, Honeywell FPR 10, Lennox X6675. Around $25 at Home Depot. Captures most smoke particles down to 0.3 microns. If you have a 4-inch or 5-inch media filter cabinet (those bigger pleated filters in a metal housing), the MERV 13 version of those exists too. More expensive but lasts longer. One caveat: very old furnaces (15+ years) sometimes can't push air through a MERV 13 without restricting airflow. If your blower runs constantly without reaching temp after the swap, drop back to MERV 11. Run the fan on "ON" not "Auto" during heavy smoke days — circulates and filters even when not heating/cooling. That's the biggest practical move.
When you see — "AC isn't cooling properly"
Ottawa HVAC tech. Run through these before calling anyone: 1. Replace the furnace filter. Restricted airflow is the #1 cause of AC underperformance. If it's been more than 60 days, swap it. 2. Check the outdoor unit. Pull leaves and debris from around it. The fan needs clear airflow. If the coils on the outside of the unit are caked with cottonwood fluff or dirt, hose them gently from the inside out (turn off the breaker first). 3. Check the indoor coil and drain. If the drain is clogged and the safety switch tripped, the AC won't run. Look at the pan beneath the indoor coil for standing water. 4. Set the thermostat to 22 and the fan to "ON" not "Auto". If you feel cool air at the vents but the room temp won't drop, it's likely a refrigerant or sizing issue. If you feel weak/warm air at the vents, it's airflow or compressor. If steps 1-3 don't fix it, then yes, time for service. Most service calls for "AC not cooling" turn out to be filter or drain. Worth checking before paying for a tech to point at a filter.

Tactics for Week 1

  • Volume target: 15-25 helpful comments across r/ottawa, r/HVAC, r/HomeImprovement.
  • Karma target: 200+ comment karma by end of week. r/ottawa filters new accounts hard.
  • Don't: Post any original content yet. Don't mention the company. Don't link.
  • Profile setup: The Reddit account profile should say something like "HVAC tech and small business owner in Ottawa". People who find the profile via the username will see the affiliation. That's where conversion happens, not in the post body.
Week 2 · May 19–25| r/ottawa (primary) r/HomeImprovement (cross) | Tue or Wed, 7–9pm Eastern

PSA: Quick AC drain check that prevents most basement floods I see this time of year

Ottawa HVAC tech here. May into early June is when I get the most calls for basement water damage, and almost all of them trace back to one thing: the condensate drain on the AC. Quick check that takes 30 seconds: 1. Find your indoor AC unit (usually attached to your furnace in the basement or utility room). 2. Look for a small PVC pipe coming out the side, around 3/4 inch diameter. 3. The end should be over a drain or floor drain. 4. Check the pan underneath the indoor coil — if there's standing water in it, the drain is clogged. If you see water in the pan: - Pour a cup of white vinegar into the drain line where it exits the unit (most have a small access tee with a removable cap). - Wait 30 minutes, flush with hot water. - If that doesn't clear it, you've got a real clog and need a tech. The clogs are usually algae buildup, which is why vinegar works. Some units have a float switch that'll shut the AC off when water rises — if yours hasn't run since the heat started, check this before assuming compressor failure. Doing this once in spring saves a lot of carpet replacements. Not selling anything, just sick of seeing the same call every May.

Notes for Week 2

  • Tone check: First original post. Stay tactical, no disclosure of company yet (the next post handles that). The line "not selling anything" preempts the obvious objection.
  • Reply strategy: Stay active in comments for 24 hours. Answer follow-ups about float switches, drain line freezes, etc. Each reply is more karma.
  • If it doesn't get traction: Don't repost. Some posts die in New due to timing. Try again Week 3 with the bigger post.
Week 3 · May 26–Jun 1| r/ottawa (primary) | Tue or Wed, 7–9pm Eastern

Ottawa HVAC tech here — the 3 things I see homeowners overpay for every May/June (and how to spot it)

I run a small HVAC company in Ottawa, so I'll disclose that upfront. I'm not linking to anything and I'm not naming my company — just want to share what I see week after week because the same patterns keep costing people money. **1. AC tune-up "essential services" upsells** A standard AC tune-up should be around $120-180 in Ottawa. Reasonable. What you don't usually need every year: - "Coil cleaning" as an add-on when the coils are already clean. Ask the tech to take a photo of the coil before "cleaning" it. - Capacitor replacement when the existing one reads within spec. A multimeter test takes 30 seconds — ask to see the reading. - UV light or "system sanitization" packages pitched at $400+. UV systems are a real product but they're almost never a same-visit add-on you need today. If a tune-up quote arrives at $400+, you're being upsold. Decline politely and book elsewhere if needed. **2. Emergency-rate weekend calls that aren't emergencies** If your AC stopped cooling on a Saturday and your house is 26C, that's uncomfortable but it's not an emergency. The emergency-rate markup is real (1.5-2x normal rates) and most companies offer Monday at regular rates. Just ask. Real emergencies in the HVAC world: no heat in winter below 5C, gas smell, water actively damaging the house. **3. Replacement quotes during repair visits** A tech who arrives to fix a fan motor and leaves having quoted a $14,000 new system replacement is doing sales, not service. The repair-vs-replace decision is real, but it should be a separate conversation with separate pricing, not bundled into a single visit. Ask for the repair cost in writing, then make the replacement decision later with quotes from different companies. If a company won't give you a written repair quote without first agreeing to the replacement, that's the answer. Walk. Happy to answer questions in comments. Not taking DMs for service — if you want to find me you can, but this isn't a sales pitch.

Notes for Week 3

  • This is the first disclosure post. Saying "I run a small HVAC company" upfront preempts the self-promo accusation. Honesty is the brand.
  • Modmail r/ottawa first. Before posting, send a short modmail explaining you're a local business owner who wants to share useful content. Most mods respond positively if asked.
  • Comment strategy: Be ready for 1-2 skeptical comments accusing self-promo. Reply once, calmly, with the disclosure repeated. Don't argue further.
  • Cross-post candidates: r/PersonalFinanceCanada (24-48 hours later, repost with minor adjustments). Avoid same-day cross-posting.
Phase 2 · Establish Authority

Weeks 4–7: Cost transparency and trust-building.

The credibility anchor posts. By the end of Week 7's AMA, Derek is a recognized voice in r/ottawa for HVAC questions.

Week 4 · Jun 2–8| r/ottawa (primary) r/PersonalFinanceCanada (Day 3) | Tue or Wed, 7–9pm Eastern

What I actually charge for AC installs in Ottawa — real numbers, no marketing speak

Mods cleared this. I run a small HVAC company in Ottawa — not naming it, not linking anything, just sharing real install pricing because every spring I see Redditors here asking "is $X fair?" and getting answers from people who've never quoted an Ottawa AC job. My pricing for a typical 2,000 sq ft Ottawa home, 2-3 ton AC install on existing ductwork: **Tier 1 — Reliable, no frills (13-14 SEER, single-stage)** - Lennox ML14XC1, Carrier Comfort, or equivalent: $4,200–4,800 installed - Includes: new pad, line set if needed (add ~$200), permit, manufacturer parts warranty, 1 year labour warranty - What you're paying for: equipment + ~8 hours labour + $400-600 in supplies **Tier 2 — The sweet spot (16 SEER, two-stage)** - Lennox Elite EL16XC1, Carrier Performance, or equivalent: $5,800–6,800 installed - Includes: smart thermostat compatibility, 10-year compressor warranty, quieter operation - What you're paying for: roughly $1,200 better equipment, same labour as Tier 1 **Tier 3 — Premium variable-speed (18+ SEER, inverter)** - Lennox Signature SL18XC1, Carrier Infinity, or Mitsubishi mini-split system: $8,500–12,000+ - Why the spread: variable-speed compressors, premium controls, longest warranties, sometimes additional zoning - Worth it if: your last electricity bill made you cry, you have multiple zones, or you're staying in the house 10+ years What moves the price UP from these baselines: - Old or undersized ductwork (add $500-2,000 for modifications) - Electrical upgrade if your panel is full (add $800-1,500 — this is an electrician's bill, not mine) - 2nd-floor or rooftop placement (extra crane/labour) - Premium high-efficiency filtration or IAQ add-ons (real products but optional) What the big chains often quote on the same Tier 2 install: - $9,000–13,000 with financing pitched as "$X per month for 84 months" - The "deal" frequently comes with a 5-10 year rental clause buried in the contract - "Good/Better/Best" sales process designed to anchor you on the middle option, which is itself overpriced If you're shopping, get 3 quotes and ask each company to email the SEER rating, model number, and ductwork modification scope before you sign anything. Compare apples to apples. If a company won't email specifics before signing, that tells you what you need to know. Happy to answer questions in comments. If you've got a specific quote you're trying to evaluate, drop the model number and total — I'll tell you what's reasonable and what's not. No DMs needed.

Notes for Week 4

  • This is the anchor post. Everything that follows builds on the credibility this establishes. Spend time replying to comments — this is where the conversion happens.
  • Cost numbers: Adjust these to YOUR actual Ottawa pricing before posting. Reddit will notice if claimed numbers are off-market. Honest is the whole point.
  • Watch for: Other Ottawa HVAC people might comment to disagree on pricing. Engage politely, present your data, don't argue. Disagreement makes the thread more credible, not less.
  • Cross-post timing: Wait 48-72 hours before reposting to r/PersonalFinanceCanada. Edit the intro slightly so it doesn't read as identical content. PFC mods are strict.
Week 5 · Jun 9–15| r/ottawa r/PersonalFinanceCanada r/legaladvicecanada | Tue or Wed, 7–9pm Eastern

How to get out of a Reliance Home Comfort or Enercare furnace/water heater rental in Ontario — the steps that actually work

Ottawa HVAC guy here. Maybe 15% of the calls I get start with "we want a new system but we're trapped in a Reliance/Enercare contract." Sharing the playbook because the same questions come up every week. **First: figure out what you actually have** There are two flavours of "rental": 1. Open-term rental: month to month, around $30-65/month. You can cancel with 30 days notice plus a buyout at the depreciated value of the equipment. 2. Fixed-term contract: usually 10 years, around $50-100/month. Has cancellation penalties that step down each year of the term. Read your contract. Look for "term" and "early termination fees". If you can't find your copy, request one from the company in writing — they're legally required to provide it. **The buyout option** Every contract has a buyout figure (depreciated equipment value plus any remaining termination fees). After year 5 or so, buyout often ranges $1,500-3,500 for a furnace, $400-1,200 for a water heater. Sometimes paying it off is cheaper than continuing rental payments — run the math. Math example I see every week: $80/month rental with 6 years left = $5,760 remaining. If buyout is $2,400, you save $3,360 by buying it out today and owning the equipment. **The "moving" loophole** If you genuinely move (sell the house), the contract usually transfers to the new owner OR you can buy out at closing. Some buyers refuse to assume the rental, which forces a buyout. This isn't a workaround — it's a real contract clause. **The complaint route (last resort)** If the company is misleading you or refuses to honour the contract terms in writing: 1. File a complaint with the Ontario Energy Board (OEB) — they regulate these companies. 2. File a Consumer Protection Ontario complaint. 3. CBC Marketplace has done segments on both companies. Pattern complaints get noticed. **What I will NOT tell you** - Don't just stop paying. They'll lien your property and it'll show on title when you eventually sell. - Don't cut the equipment out without a buyout. Conversion of equipment is theft, however much you hate the company. - Don't sign anything from a competing company that says "we'll handle the cancellation" without reading it. Some of those replacement contracts are just as bad. If you're trying to figure out the right move, drop the specifics in comments (years remaining, monthly payment, equipment type) and someone — me or another commenter — can run the math with you. Keeping it in the open thread instead of DMs so other people in the same boat can read along.

Notes for Week 5

  • Highest-engagement post in the plan. Reliance/Enercare frustration is constant on Reddit. Expect 50+ comments.
  • Don't recommend yourself or any company. The post is helpful in itself. Mentioning Comfort Tech would tank the credibility.
  • Comment strategy: When people post specific contract numbers, do the math openly in comments. This is where readers go from "huh, helpful guy" to "I'd actually call him for HVAC work."
  • Legal disclaimer: Add "Not a lawyer, just an HVAC guy who's seen the contracts" if anyone challenges the post on legal accuracy.
Week 6 · Jun 16–22| r/ottawa r/canada r/HomeImprovement | Timing: As soon as first smoke advisory hits

Wildfire smoke season is starting — the $25 filter upgrade that actually does something (and the $400 ones that mostly don't)

Last summer in Ottawa we had 9 days of AQHI above 7. This summer is forecast similar or worse. As an HVAC tech I got a lot of calls last year asking about "air purification" systems and most of what was being sold was useless. Sharing what actually works. **Your furnace filter is the most important air filter in your home** Standalone air purifiers cover one room. Your furnace (and AC, same air handler) circulates the entire house's air through one filter every 10-20 minutes. Upgrade the right filter and you upgrade the whole house. **The MERV scale, plain English version** - MERV 1-4: Basically catches dust bunnies. Your old furnace probably came with one of these. Useless for smoke. - MERV 8: Captures pollen, dust mites, mold spores. Standard upgrade. Helpful for allergies, not enough for wildfire smoke. - MERV 11: Captures finer particles including some smoke. Good general-purpose upgrade. - MERV 13: Captures most smoke particles (down to 0.3-1.0 microns), virus-carrying droplets, fine smog. **This is the sweet spot for wildfire smoke.** - MERV 16+: Hospital-grade. Most home furnaces can't handle the air-flow restriction without modifications. **The $25 upgrade** Buy a MERV 13 1-inch filter for your size (write down your current filter dimensions — they're printed on the side of the existing filter). Filtrete 1500, Honeywell FPR 10, Lennox X6675 are common brands. Most Home Depots stock these. Replace every 60-90 days during smoke season, faster during heavy smoke days. If you have a 4-inch or 5-inch media cabinet (those bigger pleated filters in a metal housing), the MERV 13 version is more expensive (around $50-80) but lasts 6 months and works better than 1-inch filters. **Important caveat** Some older furnaces don't have enough static pressure to handle MERV 13 without restricting airflow, which can damage the system. If your furnace is 15+ years old or you're not sure, check the manual or have a tech verify before swapping. Symptoms of trouble: blower runs constantly without reaching target temperature, weak airflow at vents, or AC ice-up in summer. If MERV 13 restricts your system, drop back to MERV 11 — still way better than stock. **What I would NOT pay for** - UV light air purification systems ($800-1,500 install): they kill some pathogens but do nothing for smoke particles. Heavy on marketing, light on smoke benefit. - "Ionizers" that produce ozone: skip these. Ozone is the actual pollutant the AQHI scale tracks. You're making the problem you're trying to solve. - Portable HEPA units at $400+ when your furnace filter does 80% of the same job for $25. (A $150 portable HEPA in a bedroom for sleep is a separate, legitimate purchase.) **The high-leverage combo when smoke is bad** MERV 13 filter + close windows + run the fan on "ON" instead of "Auto" (so air keeps filtering even when not heating/cooling). That's most of what an indoor air quality system would do, for $25 and a thermostat toggle. Questions welcome.

Notes for Week 6

  • Topical timing matters. Don't post this in clear-air weather. Post it the day the first AQHI advisory hits, while people are searching for solutions.
  • If Ottawa hasn't had a smoke event yet by mid-June: Hold this post. Use Week 7 (AMA) as your Week 6 instead, and use this when smoke arrives.
  • Comment strategy: Lots of "what about [specific product]" questions. Be honest — some IAQ products are good, some are marketing. Be the unbiased source.
  • Cross-post candidate: r/canada and r/Toronto (during smoke events). r/HomeImprovement for evergreen reach.
Week 7 · Jun 23–29| r/ottawa (primary) r/Heatpumps | Tue 7–9pm. Be available 48 hours for replies.

I've installed 200+ heat pumps in Ottawa over the last 3 years. AMA about whether one's right for your home.

Mods approved this. I run a small HVAC company in Ottawa and we've been doing more heat pump installs than furnaces for about 18 months now. The questions I get from customers are pretty different from what the rebate websites and manufacturer marketing tell you, so figured I'd open it up. Some context on what I've seen: **The good:** They actually work in Ottawa winters. Mitsubishi Hyper Heat, Lennox SL25XPV, Carrier Infinity and similar cold-climate units maintain capacity to about -25C, which covers 95%+ of our heating season. The hydro bill increase is real but largely offset by gas bill elimination if you make the full switch. **The mixed:** Sizing matters way more than with furnaces. An undersized heat pump in a poorly insulated 1970s Nepean bungalow will struggle. A correctly sized one in a well-built 2010+ home in Barrhaven runs almost effortlessly. Same equipment, different outcomes — it's the install quality and sizing that determines it. **The bad:** Bad installations are everywhere. Refrigerant lines too long without proper sizing, charge amounts wrong, condenser placement that ices up against north walls in February. The technology is good. The install quality varies wildly between companies. **Questions I can answer:** - Will a heat pump work for my specific home? (Share year built, neighbourhood, current heating type, and rough square footage.) - HRSP rebate questions (the $7,500 program, eligibility, audit timing) - Heat pump vs new gas furnace math (real numbers from my customers) - Dual-fuel / hybrid systems (heat pump + furnace as backup) - Specific brand experiences — what I install and why - What to ask a contractor before signing anything **What I won't do:** - Pitch my company or take DMs about service. If you want to find me, my username and post history are right here. - Trash-talk specific competitors by name. - Recommend a specific contractor by name (let people share their own experiences in comments). Ask away. I'll be checking in over the next 48 hours.

Notes for Week 7 (anchor post)

  • This is the most important post in the 90 days. AMAs get pinned, get referenced months later. Treat the response window like a part-time job — aim for 50+ replies in the first 24 hours.
  • Capture every question. Spreadsheet the comments. They become FAQ content for the website AND ad copy for Meta campaigns.
  • If a question stumps you: Say so. "Honestly not sure, let me check with my sizing software and follow up tomorrow." Reddit respects "I don't know" much more than confident wrong answers.
  • Cross-post timing: Same day to r/Heatpumps is fine — it's a different audience. They'll be more technical.
Phase 3 · Rebate-Driven Growth

Weeks 8–11: Convert the warmed audience.

Paid ads launch alongside these posts. The Reddit content is the trust signal that lifts ad CTR. The dedicated landing pages handle conversion.

Week 8 · Jun 30–Jul 6| r/ottawa r/Ontario r/PersonalFinanceCanada | Tue or Wed, 7–9pm Eastern

Ontario's $7,500 heat pump rebate (HRSP) explained — the parts that confuse everyone, and what to do BEFORE you sign anything

HVAC guy in Ottawa. The Home Renovation Savings Program (HRSP) just had its first full year of operation in 2025 and the questions from my customers keep coming up because the government materials are written like tax law. Trying to explain it in plain English. **What it is** Up to $7,500 rebate from the Ontario government (administered by Enbridge Gas) when you install a qualifying cold-climate heat pump. It replaced the federal Greener Homes Grant which was cancelled in 2024. **Who qualifies** Homeowners (not renters, not commercial) currently heating with: - Natural gas - Propane - Heating oil - Wood - Electric baseboard or forced-air electric You do NOT qualify if you already have a heat pump and are just replacing it. You DO qualify if you have a furnace + AC and you're switching to a heat pump. **Where the $7,500 actually comes from** The rebate is tiered: - Centrally ducted heat pump (replaces furnace + AC in one system): up to $7,500 - Ductless mini-split (wall-mounted heads): up to $4,500 - Hybrid system (heat pump with gas backup): up to $6,500 The exact amount depends on system size (BTU/h capacity) and efficiency rating (HSPF2). Bigger and more efficient = bigger rebate, up to the cap. **The pre-install audit requirement (this trips people up)** Before installation you need a pre-retrofit home energy audit done by a Registered Energy Advisor. Costs around $400-600. Without this, no rebate. You also need a post-install audit (around $300-400) to verify the installation qualifies. Total audit cost: $700-1,000. Worth it for a $7,500 rebate, but budget for it as a separate line item. **Timing reality** From signing to rebate cheque is usually 4-6 months: - Pre-audit booking: 2-4 weeks wait - Install scheduling: 2-8 weeks depending on season - Post-audit: 2-3 weeks after install - Rebate processing: 6-12 weeks after post-audit submission If you're starting now (early summer), you might see the cheque in October or November. Plan accordingly. **The contractor question** HRSP doesn't require a specific contractor, but the heat pump model must be on the qualifying products list (HSPF2 rating 9.0+ for the full $7,500 tier). Any reputable HVAC company can install a qualifying system. Before signing, ask: 1. Is the proposed model on the HRSP qualifying products list? (Get the model number and check yourself at savings.enbridgegas.com.) 2. Will you assist with audit booking and paperwork? (Some do, some don't — either is fine, just know which.) 3. Is the install scheduled AFTER the pre-audit, but you'll book the post-audit separately? **Common mistakes I see** - Signing for the system before booking the pre-audit (sometimes works out, sometimes doesn't qualify) - Choosing a slightly cheaper model that's NOT on the qualifying list. Saves $500 on equipment, costs $7,500 in rebate. - Believing the contractor who says "we handle all the paperwork" without verifying the audit booking yourself. - Assuming the rebate gets applied at point of sale. It doesn't. It comes after install as a cheque. **What I'd do if I were starting today** 1. Book the pre-audit first. (Find a Registered Energy Advisor through Enbridge's locator or NRCan's list.) 2. Get 2-3 quotes from local installers, asking each one to specify model and confirm HRSP eligibility. 3. Don't sign anything until you have the audit report in hand. 4. Schedule install at least 2 weeks after the audit. 5. Submit the rebate paperwork yourself if the contractor seems disorganized about it. Happy to answer specific questions in comments. If you're trying to figure out whether your home qualifies, share the heating type and approximate year built and someone here will help you work through it.

Notes for Week 8 (conversion driver)

  • Launch paid ads same day. Google Ads on "hrsp ontario", "ontario heat pump rebate", "$7500 heat pump ontario". Landing page should have a rebate calculator + quote request form.
  • Watch for misinformation in comments. The program has changed details since launch. If something is out of date in your post, edit it with an [EDIT] note rather than deleting. Edits show honesty.
  • Cross-post timing: r/Ontario same day (different audience). r/PersonalFinanceCanada 48 hours later (different framing in the title).
  • If your landing page isn't ready: Hold this post by a week. The Reddit traffic is wasted without the conversion infrastructure ready to receive it.
Week 9 · Jul 7–13| r/ottawa r/Heatpumps r/PersonalFinanceCanada | Tue or Wed, 7–9pm Eastern

Heat pump vs new gas furnace in Ottawa — the comparison worksheet I built for my customers

HVAC guy in Ottawa. Half my consultations now start with "should I just replace my furnace, or switch to a heat pump?" Built this comparison framework over the last year for my own customers — sharing because the manufacturer marketing on both sides is heavily slanted. **The honest break-even framework** Three numbers determine the right answer: 1. What you'd pay for a new mid-tier furnace + AC (Lennox Elite or equivalent) in Ottawa: around $11,000 installed 2. What you'd pay for a mid-tier cold-climate heat pump (Mitsubishi Hyper Heat or similar): around $14,500 installed 3. The annual operating cost difference between gas + electric AC vs. all-electric heat pump That third number is the contested one. From real customer data over the last 18 months in Ottawa homes: **Typical 2,000 sq ft Ottawa home, reasonably insulated:** - Gas furnace + AC: about $1,200/year gas + about $300/year AC electricity = $1,500/year - Cold-climate heat pump: about $1,800-2,200/year electricity, no gas = about $2,000/year average - Annual cost penalty for heat pump: about $500/year **Poorly insulated 1960s-70s bungalow:** - Gas furnace + AC: about $1,700/year gas + $400/year AC = $2,100/year - Cold-climate heat pump: about $2,800-3,400/year electricity = $3,100/year - Annual cost penalty for heat pump: about $1,000/year So heat pump operating cost is currently HIGHER than gas in most Ottawa homes. Anyone telling you otherwise is either selling something or hasn't looked at the math. **Where the heat pump math actually wins** 1. **Carbon tax trajectory:** Federal carbon tax adds about $0.18/m3 to natural gas in 2026, projected to rise. By 2030 it could add $1,200-1,500/year to a typical Ottawa gas heating bill. That changes the math. 2. **HRSP rebate:** $7,500 off the heat pump price closes the upfront gap. After rebate, a heat pump is actually CHEAPER upfront than a comparable furnace+AC pair. 3. **Time-of-use hydro optimization:** Heat pump + smart thermostat that pre-heats during off-peak hours shrinks the operating cost gap by 15-25%. 4. **Resale:** 5 years from now, a house with a heat pump will be a normal listing. A house with a 1990s furnace and no AC may be a "needs HVAC" listing. **The break-even calculation (with HRSP)** - Heat pump after rebate: $14,500 - $7,500 = $7,000 - Furnace + AC: $11,000 - Heat pump is $4,000 cheaper upfront If the heat pump costs $500-1,000 more per year to operate, you "pay back" the savings in 4-8 years through higher hydro bills. After that, it's pure savings as carbon tax climbs. **My honest recommendation by situation:** - **New construction or major reno:** Heat pump, no question. Properly sized in a well-insulated house, the cost penalty disappears. - **Solid newer home (1990+), gas furnace, AC due to replace:** Heat pump with HRSP, especially if planning to stay 7+ years. - **Older home (pre-1990), gas furnace, no AC:** Dual-fuel system (heat pump + gas furnace backup). Best of both — heat pump does 80% of heating, furnace kicks in below -15C. - **Older home, no insulation upgrades planned, gas furnace works fine:** Replace with new furnace + AC. The heat pump math doesn't work without addressing the envelope first. **The questions to actually ask before deciding** 1. Are you staying 7+ years? (If not, the math favours furnace.) 2. Is your home reasonably air-sealed and insulated? (If not, insulate first — that's the bigger ROI.) 3. Are you eligible for HRSP? ($7,500 changes the calculation.) 4. Do you currently have AC? (Heat pump replaces both, so the comparison shifts.) If you want to share your specifics in comments, happy to give you my honest read on which way the math leans.

Notes for Week 9

  • Numbers will be the focus of comments. Be ready to defend the operating cost data. Have your customer data summary handy.
  • The "honest" framing matters: Acknowledging that heat pumps cost MORE to operate today is counterintuitive and builds enormous trust. Most heat pump marketing tries to hide this.
  • Anti-pattern to avoid: Don't end with "DM me for a quote". The post should stand alone.
Week 10 · Jul 14–20| r/ottawa r/legaladvicecanada r/PersonalFinanceCanada | Tue or Wed, 7–9pm Eastern

Ontario landlords — what you're actually required to provide for HVAC, and what tenants can legally demand

HVAC tech in Ottawa. I work with both individual landlords and property managers, so I see both sides of this. Posting because the same misunderstandings keep coming up on r/ottawa, r/legaladvicecanada, and from landlord clients themselves. **The legal minimum (Ontario Residential Tenancies Act + Ottawa property standards)** Landlords must: 1. Provide heat capable of maintaining 20C from September 1 to June 15 (Ottawa property standards bylaw — 21C in some jurisdictions) 2. Maintain the heating system in good working order at the landlord's expense 3. Respond to heating failures as urgent maintenance (within 24 hours for no-heat in winter) Landlords are NOT required to provide: - Air conditioning - Cooling of any kind - Whole-home humidification - Air quality systems beyond basic ventilation If a tenant installs a window AC unit, that's their equipment and their responsibility. The landlord generally can't unreasonably prohibit it unless the lease was signed with a clear no-AC clause. **The grey areas** **Tenant-installed window AC and electricity bills:** If hydro is included in rent, landlords often try to charge extra for AC use. This is generally not enforceable unless the lease specifies it. Best practice: address it in the lease, not after. **Furnace age and efficiency:** There's no legal minimum efficiency standard. A 1985 furnace burning natural gas at 65% efficiency is legal if it heats to 20C. Tenants can't demand an upgrade. Landlords benefit from upgrading anyway (HRSP rebate eligibility + lower operating costs if utilities are included in rent). **Filter changes:** Standard practice is landlord supplies and changes furnace filters quarterly, OR the lease specifies tenant responsibility. If unwritten, courts generally side with tenant on this being a landlord obligation (it's system maintenance, not consumable use). **During no-heat emergencies** Tenants: 1. Notify landlord in writing immediately (text or email — keep proof) 2. If no response in 24 hours, contact 311 or Ottawa property standards 3. Document indoor temperature with photos of a thermometer plus timestamp 4. If you need to buy a space heater, you may be entitled to reimbursement — keep receipts Landlords: 1. Respond within 24 hours, even if just to acknowledge 2. Get an HVAC tech on-site within 48 hours max in winter 3. If repair will take longer than 48 hours and outside temperature is below 5C, you may need to provide alternative heating or accommodation 4. Document everything — if a tenant rejects access for repair, that's on them (in writing) **The hybrid heat pump conversation** This one's coming up more often. Landlord wants to use the HRSP rebate to install a heat pump (lowers their gas costs if utilities are included in rent, qualifies for $7,500). Tenants worry about hydro bill changes if they pay their own electric. A few realities: - If tenant pays hydro and landlord pays gas, switching to a heat pump shifts cost from landlord to tenant. The lease should address this with a rent adjustment or utility split change. - If tenant pays both gas and hydro, the math is roughly neutral (modest electric increase, gas eliminated). - The Landlord and Tenant Board has limited precedent on this specific issue yet — get the agreement in writing before changing the system. **For landlords running multiple units** Maintenance plans pay for themselves once you're past 3-4 doors. Annual furnace tune-ups documented in writing also protect you from "the landlord didn't maintain it" disputes at the LTB. Questions welcome. If you're a tenant dealing with a heating issue or a landlord trying to figure out the right move, drop the specifics in comments.

Notes for Week 10

  • This opens the property manager segment. Comfort Tech's site lists Property Managers as a category but it's under-marketed. This post starts that lane.
  • Disclaimer language: If commenters challenge legal accuracy, repeat "Not a lawyer, just an HVAC guy who works with both sides." Direct them to r/legaladvicecanada for legal specifics.
  • Cross-post timing: r/legaladvicecanada is good cross-post but expect heavy moderation — they'll require strict factual framing. r/PersonalFinanceCanada same day is safer.
  • Watch for: Anti-landlord sentiment in r/ottawa comments. Don't engage with the political stuff. Stay on HVAC facts.
Week 11 · Jul 21–27| r/ottawa r/PersonalFinanceCanada r/Heatpumps | Tue or Wed, 7–9pm Eastern

I track every customer's hydro bill after switching to a heat pump in Ottawa. Here's the actual numbers, not the marketing.

HVAC tech in Ottawa. The single biggest objection I hear to heat pumps is "my hydro bill will skyrocket." Most heat pump marketing either dodges this or quotes optimistic numbers from BC where hydro is cheaper. I track my customers' before/after for 12 months post-install. Sharing real data from 47 Ottawa-area homes that switched in the last 18 months. **The setup** - All homes were gas furnace + AC before; cold-climate heat pump (Mitsubishi, Lennox, or Carrier inverter) after - Mix of 1970s to 2015 builds, ranging 1,400 to 3,200 sq ft - All in Ottawa or close suburbs (Hydro Ottawa or Hydro One service areas) - Time-of-use pricing in effect **The average homeowner (around 2,000 sq ft, 1990s build):** Before switch (annual): - Natural gas: $1,180 - Electricity (AC + everything else): $1,840 - Total: $3,020 After switch (annual): - Natural gas: $0 (eliminated) or $180 (kept for cooking/water heater) - Electricity (heat pump + everything else): $2,950 - Total: $3,130 (with gas kept) or $2,950 (with gas eliminated) **Annual cost change: roughly flat to +$110** That's a real number, not a worst case. In a typical Ottawa home, switching to a heat pump changes your total energy spend by between approximately zero and +$300/year today. **Where it gets better** 1. **Insulation matters more than equipment.** 8 of my 47 customers had above-average insulation (R-50+ attic, decent walls, good windows). Their average increase was $0-50/year. Two saw small decreases. 2. **Smart thermostat scheduling.** Customers using a smart thermostat to pre-heat during off-peak hours (overnight ultra-low pricing) saved another $200-400/year vs. flat scheduling. 3. **Carbon tax trajectory.** Federal carbon adds about $0.18/m3 to gas right now, rising to about $0.32 by 2030. The customers who left $1,200/year gas behind will avoid an additional $400-600/year of gas costs by 2030. That flips the math from "roughly flat" to "saving $400+/year" within 3-4 years. **Where it gets worse** 1. **Poorly insulated older homes.** 4 of my 47 customers had real envelope problems (single-pane windows, R-20 attic, drafty). Two saw $600-900/year increases. One eventually added insulation; the other regrets the switch. 2. **Wrong sizing.** One customer's installer over-sized the heat pump (5-ton in a home that needed 3-ton). Constant short-cycling, high bills. We re-sized it. This is an install quality issue, not a heat pump issue, but it happens. 3. **Auxiliary heat misuse.** Heat pumps have backup electric resistance heat for very cold days. If installed or programmed wrong, the backup runs too often and electricity costs spike. Mine are set so backup only kicks in below -18C or after extended demand. This setting matters. **My honest take** If you're switching primarily to save money on heating, the math is roughly a wash in most Ottawa homes today. If you're switching for any of these reasons — lower carbon footprint, eliminating gas appliances entirely, taking the HRSP rebate, future-proofing against carbon tax — the math works in your favour over a 7-10 year horizon. Insulation upgrades almost always have better short-term ROI than equipment swaps. If you have a leaky envelope and an older furnace, insulate first, then make the heat pump decision in 12-18 months with better numbers. Drop questions in comments. If you're trying to figure out whether YOUR home will be one of the cheap ones or one of the expensive ones, the answer is mostly in your insulation and house age.

Notes for Week 11

  • The honesty is the conversion lever. Saying "heat pumps cost roughly the same to run, not less" is the opposite of standard marketing. That's why it works.
  • If your data differs: Use Comfort Tech's actual customer data instead of these illustrative numbers. The framework is what matters; the specifics should be yours.
  • Comment strategy: Lots of "but Mike at [HVAC company] told me I'd save $1000/year" comments. Don't trash Mike. Just say "the math sometimes works out that way with very good insulation or specific use patterns — for typical homes in Ottawa, the numbers I tracked are what I tracked."
Phase 4 · Conversion + Paid Ads Handoff

Weeks 12–13: Seasonal pivot and brand handoff.

Pre-fall furnace content runs concurrent with the full launch of Google Ads on furnace keywords. Reddit credibility built over 11 weeks lifts ad click-through-rate.

Week 12 · Jul 28–Aug 3| r/ottawa (primary) r/PersonalFinanceCanada | Tue or Wed, 7–9pm Eastern

Ottawa furnaces start dying in October — what to do in August (and what NOT to do)

HVAC guy in Ottawa. August is when smart homeowners get ahead of furnace problems and unprepared homeowners get scammed in October. Posting now because the service calls start rolling in mid-September and most of the avoidable spend happens between September and December. **The pattern I see every year:** - **October:** First cold snap. Furnaces that struggled last winter or haven't been serviced in 3+ years start failing. Demand for service spikes. Most companies are still on summer staffing. Wait times grow. - **November:** Replacement decisions made in panic. People who waited until their furnace died are now choosing between "freezing for 5 days" and "saying yes to whatever the first salesperson quotes." Average quote acceptance goes up, average price paid goes up. - **December:** Same as November but worse. Holiday season + cold = nobody negotiates. - **January-February:** Peak emergency calls. Premium pricing. New install scheduling is 2-3 weeks out at most companies. **What to do in August or September instead:** **1. Get the furnace inspected** ($120-180 for a real inspection — not the "free" sales-tour kind) A proper inspection: combustion analysis, heat exchanger inspection (camera if possible), gas pressure check, electrical safety check, blower motor amp draw, all readings written down. If your furnace is 15+ years old, ask the tech for an honest age and condition assessment in writing. **2. Decide BEFORE you have to** If the inspection flags risks (cracked heat exchanger, struggling blower, frequent ignition issues), you have time: - Get 2-3 quotes from different companies - Compare specs in writing — model numbers, AFUE rating, warranty terms - Run the heat pump vs furnace comparison if you're eligible for HRSP - Schedule install in September or early October (lower demand means better attention from techs) **3. Stockpile filters** Order 3-6 months of furnace filters now while supply is good and pricing isn't seasonal. Small money, but it's the cheapest item on the list. **What NOT to do:** **Don't wait for the "fall furnace special" promo.** Every company runs them. They're 10-15% off prices that were marked up 20%. Real value is in honest pricing, not a percentage off marketing. **Don't trust the "we're booking up fast, sign today" pressure tactic.** This is universal. Even in October, most companies have install slots within 2-3 weeks. A salesperson who insists on signing today is a salesperson trying to skip the comparison shopping step. **Don't replace a working older furnace just because someone says you "should".** A 15-year-old 80% AFUE furnace that's running well is more efficient than the energy it would take to manufacture and transport a new one. Replace it when it fails or when repair cost exceeds half of replacement cost. Not because someone showed you a brochure. **Don't rent a furnace.** I've written about this before. Reliance / Enercare / etc rentals look reasonable monthly. Over 10 years they cost 2-3x outright purchase plus interest. Even financing a purchase at 7-8% beats renting. **What I would actually do if it were my house and my furnace was 17 years old:** 1. August: Inspection by a tech I trust ($150), full honest assessment 2. If flagged as risky: get 3 quotes for replacement in September. Compare equipment specs. Decide. 3. If safe for another season: re-inspect next August. Replace proactively in summer when demand is lowest. 4. Never replace in November or December unless the existing unit actually dies. Questions welcome. If you're trying to decide whether your furnace makes it through one more winter, share the age and any symptoms.

Notes for Week 12 (paid ads launch)

  • Launch Google Ads concurrent with this post. Keywords: "furnace replacement ottawa", "furnace repair ottawa", "new furnace cost ottawa". 11 weeks of Reddit warming has built name recognition.
  • Track the lift. Branded search ("comfort tech ottawa") should be climbing by now in GSC. Use that as the leading indicator that the Reddit work is paying off.
  • This is the pivot from summer to fall. AC season ends, furnace season begins. The content reflects it.
Week 13 · Aug 4–10| r/ottawa (primary) r/HomeImprovement | Tue or Wed, 7–9pm Eastern

Ottawa power grid is getting less reliable — the honest math on whether a standby generator is worth it

HVAC and power tech in Ottawa (I do generator installs too). Three major outages in the last 18 months and growing customer interest in standby generators. Going to be honest about when they're worth it and when they're not, because the marketing in this category is even worse than HVAC. **The cost reality (Ottawa 2026 pricing)** Portable generators ($800-3,000): - Tri-fuel or gasoline, 5-12 kW - Run essentials only (furnace, fridge, some lights) - Requires manual transfer switch (around $500-800 installed) or extension cord setup - Must be outside, away from house, monitored - Refueling and noise are real downsides Standby generators ($8,000-18,000+ installed): - Permanently installed, runs on natural gas or propane - Automatic transfer switch — kicks on within 10-30 seconds of outage - 14-22 kW for most Ottawa homes (whole-home backup) - Requires gas connection (around $500-2,000 for natural gas line work) - Requires concrete pad and clearance from house (around $300-500) - Annual maintenance (around $200-300/year) Total installed cost for typical whole-home standby in Ottawa: $11,000-15,000 for an 18-22 kW Generac, Kohler, or Briggs. **When standby makes sense:** 1. **Medical equipment in home** (CPAP, oxygen, dialysis). Easy decision. The cost is insurance, not luxury. 2. **Sump pump basement + clay soil.** Lots of Ottawa has heavy clay. If your sump runs frequently and a 12-hour outage means flooded basement, the math works fast. One flood = $15,000-40,000 in damage. 3. **Work-from-home critical setup.** If a 4-hour outage costs you a day of billable work, run the numbers. For some self-employed Ottawans this is a real $500-2,000 hit. 4. **Aging in place / mobility considerations.** Older homeowner who can't safely navigate stairs in the dark or manage a portable generator at -20C. The convenience cost is real. 5. **Rural Ottawa** (Manotick, Greely, Munster, Carleton Place, etc.). Hydro One distribution rural outages last longer than Hydro Ottawa urban outages. Average rural outage in 2025 was 6 hours vs. urban 2 hours. **When standby doesn't make sense:** 1. **Suburban Ottawa with rare outages.** If your neighbourhood has had 1-2 outages in the last 5 years and they were under 4 hours, $12,000 for a generator is buying very expensive peace of mind. 2. **Renting or moving in less than 5 years.** Generators don't add equivalent value at resale. You'll recover maybe 50-60% in the home price. 3. **Budget pressure on more impactful items.** An insulation upgrade or roof replacement saves you more money over 10 years than a generator. If both compete for the same budget, the durable home improvement usually wins. **What about portable generators?** Honest answer: they're underrated for most Ottawa homes. A $1,500-2,500 portable + a $700 manual transfer switch covers the basics — fridge, furnace, some lights, internet — for 80% of the outages you'll actually have. Total cost: around $3,000 vs. $14,000 for standby. The downsides are real (must be outside, deployed manually, runs noisy, runs on stored fuel that goes stale). But if outages are rare for you, that's a price worth paying. **The 2025-26 trend that's changing the math** Ottawa had multiple multi-day outage events in 2024-25 (derecho remnants, ice storms, summer storms). Insurance companies are starting to incorporate outage history into homeowner policies. The risk profile has genuinely shifted. I expect another bad weather year based on what's happened. That doesn't mean buy a generator today — it means run YOUR numbers honestly, including your neighbourhood's outage history (Hydro Ottawa publishes this data) and what an outage actually costs you. **My take, if it were my money:** - Suburban Ottawa with rare outages, healthy adults, no critical systems: Portable + transfer switch. About $3K total. - Rural Ottawa, sump pump, work from home: Standby, get 3 quotes, plan to keep it 5+ years to make it worth it. - Medical / mobility / can't-deploy-portable situations: Standby, no question. If you're trying to decide for your specific situation, share the basics in comments and we can math it out.

Notes for Week 13 (final post)

  • This is the bridge to Q4 ad campaigns. Generator demand spikes after fall storms. The Reddit credibility built over 90 days now compounds into year-round brand recognition.
  • Highest-AOV product. Standby generator installs are $12-15K vs. $8K typical HVAC job. Even one conversion from this post pays for the entire 90-day Reddit program.
  • After Week 13: Don't stop. Maintenance posting at 1-2 per month keeps the account healthy. Major posts can resume in Q4 (winter heating concerns) and again in spring.